godet

Etymology

From Middle French godet, from Dutch kodde (“piece of cylindrical wood”).

noun

1. (obsolete) A drinking cup.
2. (sewing) A piece of fabric inserted into a garment along a seam or cut to lengthen the free edge, and to make a garment roomier and to add a wavy edge cf. gusset.
   A pie-shaped godet (the most common one), is usually cut with straight grain down the center of the piece of fabric, leaving bias edges on the sides. 1975, The Vogue Sewing Book, page 240
   Designs with godets, gussets, square or pointed yokes and shawl collars have seams with reverse corners, that is, an inward corner on one edge and an outward corner on the adjoining edge (as shown in the drawing on p. 52). 1993, Claire B. Shaeffer, Couture Sewing Techniques, page 51
   You can sew a godet into a slit cut perpendicular to a hem edge, but it's more common—and much easier—to insert it into a vertical panel seam, as shown here. Because godets are shaped pieces, often with a pronounced curve at the hem edge, they can be tricky to hem. 2011, Carol Jean Fresia, Threads Sewing Guide, page 135
3. (textiles) A roller for guiding synthetic filaments during drawing.
   1991, Textile Asia, Volume 22, Issues 1-6, page 54, Primary air entanglement is applied to give the yarn better cohesion and thus achieve a smoother, quieter thread path over the godets. After the yarn guiding block a heated godet with idler roll acts as a spinning godet and thus defines spinning […] .
   In contrast to conventional spinning, wind-up in high speed spinning is often carried out without godets, as shown earlier in Fig. 4.2(a). The absence of godets reduces capital costs and makes thread string-up simpler. 1997, V. B. Gupta, V. K. Kothari, editors, Manufactured Fibre Technology, page 80
   Drawing is accomplished between godets 3 and 4 by the different speeds of the two godet groups. 2004, Bhuvenesh C. Goswami, Rajesh D. Anandjiwala, David Hall, Textile Sizing, page 259